Does Black Wire Go to Gold or Silver Screw on Outlet?

black wire to gold screw on outlet

Whether you’re a new homeowner or avid DIYer, working with electrical wiring can seem daunting if you’ve never done it before.

But with a basic understanding of wiring fundamentals and proper safety practices, you’ll be connecting switches and outlets like a pro.

This handy guide will walk you through the key concepts in clear, easy-to-understand language.

You’ll learn the purpose of each wire, how to identify hot versus neutral wires, and where each type connects.

With useful examples and a step-by-step outlet installation tutorial, you’ll gain the knowledge and confidence for all your basic home wiring projects.

Understanding Electrical Wiring Basics 

What’s the first step when it comes to deciphering gold and silver screws? You wonder. The first step is understanding the color-coding that makes up the electrical wiring system.

The color-coding in electrical systems exists to help match up wires to their correct corresponding terminals. For example, the gold or brass screws represent hot terminals, while the silver screws denote neutral terminals.

Basic Structure of Electrical Circuits 

12 2 wire

When wiring a standard electrical circuit, there are three main players you can’t do without – the hot wire, the neutral wire, and the ground wire.

Hot wires are the wires that actually carry electricity to wherever it’s needed (i.e., on a device, outlet, or light you want to power).

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Hot wires are always black or sometimes red, and they connect to the gold or brass screws.

The neutral wires carry electricity back to the main breaker panel after it must have passed through a device.

Neutral wires are identified by their white or gray color, and they connect to the silver terminals to complete the electrical loop.

Ground wires or bare copper wires, on the other hand, connect devices to the earth, protecting you from electric shocks.

While that’s the standard wiring protocol, it’s not uncommon to find some exceptions once in a while. For example, a white wire being used as a hot wire rather than a neutral wire.

If you see white wires connected to gold screws, they should be marked or taped to indicate that they are acting as hot rather than neutral.

Hot Black Wire vs Neutral Silver Screw 

As the main carrier of electricity from the power source to whatever device is being powered, the black wire is considered the hot wire in electrical wiring.

When you turn on a light switch or plug in an appliance, electricity flows through that black wire to illuminate the bulb or start up the appliance.

This differs from the neutral wire which returns unused electricity back to the breaker panel to complete the circuit.

Since the black wire holds flowing current, it carries the highest risk of electrocution if handled incorrectly during wiring projects. So you should be extra careful when handling the black wire.

Where Does the Black Wire Go on an Outlet?

On the terminals of receptacles and switches, the hot connection point is signified by a gold/brass screw, while the silver represents the neutral point.

What that means is that in a standard wiring procedure, the  black hot wires are always connected to the gold/brass screws , usually with a wire loop wrapped around the screw and tightened with a screwdriver.

While the neutral wires connect to the silver screws in the same fashion.

Reversing the hot and neutral wires during connection to the brass and silver terminals creates what’s known as “reverse polarity” and it can lead to significant safety issues.

For example, appliances could become electrified exposing users to nasty shocks or sparks. Any type of electrical arcing or sparking also leads to potential electrical fires if flammable materials are nearby.

Protecting people and property means correctly distinguishing and connecting the hot black wires and neutral white wires to brass and silver terminals respectively.

Other Common Electrical Wiring Situations 

You may find receptacles with two brass screws instead of just one. This type of receptacle allows connections of multiple black hot wires delivering electricity to the outlet.

For example, having hot wires looping in from fixtures both upstream and downstream of the receptacle.

As long as brass screws are available to connect them, the number of hot wires is irrelevant – however, overfilling a junction box with wires and connections can cause fire hazards.

Related: Wiring Outlets in Series vs Parallel

Ridge vs Smooth Wires

There are other wiring situations you can encounter during a wiring project. To make it easier to understand, examples will be used.

Let’s say you are wiring lamp cords. In lamp cords, there’s only a hot and a neutral wire encased. If you look closely at the flexible cord covering each wire, you’ll notice one side has ridges while the other is smooth.

That ridged side indicates the neutral wire within.

Connect the smooth, hot wire end to the brass screw terminal found on lamp sockets, then connect the ridged, neutral wire end to the silver screw terminal.

Reversing them by connecting the neutral to the hot brass terminal can lead to exposed electrification risks when changing the light bulb.

Single-Pole Switches and Three-Way Switch 

Another example is simple single-pole switches that are used to control light from one location. On these switches, you typically won’t find a terminal for a neutral wire connection.

Only hot wires connect to single-pole devices, usually with two interchangeable brass screws to choose from when connecting them.

Three-way switches that control lights from two locations increase the complexity a bit by introducing common and traveler terminals and wires.

Here the common terminal is connected to the hot black wire, while the traveler terminals are connected to the traveler wires, which are interchangeable on each switch.

For safety, it is always important to properly attach ground wires, usually bare copper, to grounded electrical devices via their green screw terminal, which leads to ground rods buried in the earth outside.

Also, to prevent confusion, always mark any white neutral wires functioning as hot. You can mark it by wrapping the non-standard white-hot wires with electrical tape as an alert.

How to Wire an Outlet from Start to Finish

wiring an electrical outlet

At this point, you are well grounded with the basis or the fundamentals of standard wirings and their exceptions. But having theoretical knowledge is not enough.

That’s why you’ll be learning how to wire an outlet from start to finish in this section.

Whether you want to replace an old worn-out outlet or install a new outlet in your home, the first and most important step you should take is turning off the circuit breaker for that outlet.

Once it’s turned off, ensure that power is off the outlet using a non-contact voltage tester.

A good rule of thumb to follow when installing an outlet is to assume that wires remain hot until proven otherwise.

With the power disengaged, follow through with the remaining steps below:

  • Identify all the wires in your electrical box. Hot wires are usually black/red, neutral wires are white, grounds are bare copper or green.
  • Unscrew any wire connectors to fully free all wires for maximum maneuverability.
  • Prep wire ends by stripping away ¾ inches of insulation using wire strippers. Take extra care not to nick internal metal conductors.
  • Pre-twist wire strands clockwise using pliers so no stray strands poke out.
  • Attach prepared wires to new outlet terminals marked with corresponding colors – hot wires get brass screws, neutral wires get silver screws, ground get green screws.
  • Connect the clockwise hooks in wire ends and securely clamp under terminal screws. An outlet tester can be later used to verify that you have correctly matched hot and neutral wires.
  • Before turning the main power back on, double-check to see if your connections are tight and no exposed conductors peek out.

Once that’s out of the way, you can now flip your breakers back on but verify functionality methodically from other areas of your home if possible.

For example, if there’s power somewhere else after installation, check for tripped breakers or GFCIs first before investigating the wires.

If the lights flicker or dim, or circuit breakers immediately trip again, one or more wires are likely loose and compromised somewhere requiring urgent action and waterproofing to prevent arcing or fires.

Preventing Hazards and Damages 

Ensuring proper polarity by connecting hot and neutral wires to their correctly matched hot and neutral terminals is key to operational and safety success.

Without proper polarity, outlets and connected devices can remain dangerously energized as current flows to exposed metal parts rather than being contained to intended paths only.

Also, faulty grounding leaves devices and people vulnerable to electrical faults as the path to earth is incomplete.

Without adequate grounding, a short circuit will find alternate conductive paths to the ground like plumbing pipes or humans.

In summary, both reverse polarity conditions and poor equipment grounding generate stray electricity discharges that can damage property, injure users, and possibly ignite fires as well.

So what should you do to prevent all that? Strict adherence to electrical codes and installation best practices, proper testing, and scheduled maintenance will keep those risks at bay for the long term.

Related: Loud Popping Sound in House Electrical


You’re now ready to wire on your own. With color coding, hot and neutral wires, and grounding down pat, you’ve got the skills to take on basic projects.

Start simple by installing switches, outlets, and lights solo. Just move step-by-step, double-checking connections for safety.

Though advanced circuits still need pros, you can handle basic home wiring yourself. Put your new knowledge to work – you have the power to electrify rooms one at a time.

Just be sure to flip the breakers first.

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