Samsung dishwashers are known for their efficiency and top performance; however, they are like all electronic appliances and can face problems from time to time. One of these problems is that the dishwasher can not be turned off after usage.
Being unable to turn off your dishwasher can be frustrating, but don’t worry because, in this article, we will examine all the reasons your Samsung dishwasher won’t turn off, additionally providing a solution for each issue.
Why Won’t Your Samsung Dishwasher Turn Off?
There are several reasons why your Samsung dishwasher won’t turn off; for example, if you have selected the Sanitize cycle, you won’t be able to turn off the dishwasher. If the dishwasher detects a leak, it will not turn off.
In addition, if some components are faulty, they can be the cause behind your dishwasher not turning off, for example, a defective turbidity sensor, heating rod, control board, or timer motor. The following troubleshooting guide will cover each of the aforementioned reasons in detail.
1. Leakage Problem
The dishwasher has a sensor that detects moisture; the sensor then signals to the control board to start draining the water to solve the moisture error. When the dishwasher drains the water, it will not allow you to shut down the appliance; you can turn it off when the error is solved.
There are multiple reasons why the sensor detects moisture error, some of which are external factors; for example, if you accidentally spilled a drink, there is a hole in the water pipes or residue from previous flooding. Installation problems can also lead to moisture error, for example, if the water hose is loose or damaged, and the same can be applied to the drain hose.
If the dishwasher is not installed correctly or tilted to the side, it can lead to a moisture error. If you have not removed the garbage disposal cap, it can also result in moisture, and the sensor detects it.
The user can also initiate the leakage problem; for example, if you use too much detergent, it can lead to moisture, or if you use dish soap. The drain filter can be clogged due to not cleaning it for a while, leading to moisture errors.
The water nozzles can also get clogged over time if not cleaned regularly. If the rubber seal is not fitted correctly or pushed out, it can also cause moisture issues.
The last factors are related to the dishwasher parts; they are considered mechanical errors. For example, if the dispenser is faulty or cracked, the filer is damaged, the water pump is malfunctioning, or the gasket is worn out and needs to be replaced.
2. Dishwasher Set to Sanitize Cycle
The Sanitize cycle differs from other regular cycles like drain or wash cycles because it adds up to 1.5 hours to the cycle. The Sanitize cycle increases the temperature inside the dishwasher during the washing cycle.
The dishwasher typically shuts down after the cycle ends; however, when it is set to a Sanitize cycle, the display is still on after the cycle ends, and it only shuts down when you manually turn it off.
3. Defective Control Board
The control board is the controlling part of the dishwasher, but this essential part is vulnerable to damage and defects. Control boards are sensitive to wiring errors and power surges; when the board experiences any of the mentioned, it may become unresponsive and display false error codes.
The false signals or error codes sent by the faulty control board affect the performance of the dishwasher, which means it can prevent the appliance from turning off or responding to any orders or instructions given by the user.
4. Malfunctioning Timer Motor
The timer motor is the part that decides how long the power should be provided to each part of the dishwasher. The timer motor regulates the cycles of the dishwasher and ensures that plates and dishes are clean and get the chance to dry.
If the timer motor is malfunctioning, it can cause many issues, such as the appliance not starting, cycles taking longer than usual to finish, or the device doesn’t shut down.
5. Faulty Heating Part
The heating process is a part of every cycle; if one of the heating components is faulty, it can lead to the dishwasher getting stuck during the heating process. Therefore, the dishwasher will not shut down because the appliance is still in the heating process.
For example, if the thermistor is faulty, it will send wrong signals to the control board, affecting the dishwasher’s performance or preventing it from shutting down. If the heating rod is damaged, it can also get the dishwasher stuck in the heating process.
6. Defective Turbidity Sensor
The turbidity sensor detects the clarity of the water used inside the dishwasher. Therefore, it determines how long each cycle takes to finish. If the sensor is defective, it can send wrong or false signals to the control board.
You can confirm that the turbidity sensor is the cause behind the issue if you can’t turn off the dishwasher while it’s on a Smart Auto Cycle.
How To Fix A Samsung Dishwasher That Won’t Turn Off
After discussing all the possible reasons why your Samsung dishwasher won’t turn off, like leakage problems, dishwasher set to Sanitize cycle, defective control board, etc., we will now guide you through the solution to each cause.
1. Fixing a Leakage Problem
To fix a leakage problem, you must first determine the reason for the problem and then try a suitable solution. If the cause is one of the external sources issues, you will need to power off the dishwasher and unplug it from the electrical socket or turn off its circuit breaker.
Then, dry the area around and beneath the dishwasher using a cloth. Lastly, reconnect the appliance and turn it on to ensure that the error has been resolved.
If the reason for the leakage problem is an improper installation, you will need to check the installed parts, like the drain and the water supply hose, for any damage. If they are intact, ensure they are correctly connected to the dishwasher.
Next, verify if the dishwasher is balanced and not tilted to any side; it’s advised that you not screw the dishwasher too tight to the cabinet. If the problem is a usage error like using excess detergent, you must clean the dispenser and the tub from any excess suds.
Then, disconnect the filter assembly and clean all its parts; the fine, coarse, and primary filters. Next, clean the sink drain, water nozzles, and hoses to avoid clogging.
The last possible reason is mechanical; start by inspecting the dishwasher components, like the filter and dispenser. If one of the mentioned components is damaged, you will have to replace them, and to test the parts; you will need to use a digital multimeter.
Set the multimeter to continuity and test each component; if any shows no signals of electrical continuity, you will need to replace the part or hire a technician to fix it. The last thing is to ensure the rubber seals are intact and secured in place; if they are worn out, replace them; meanwhile, if they are pushed out, you will need to fit them properly.
2. Dishwasher Set to Sanitize Cycle
First, you will need to open the appliance door to end the cycle but be careful when you open the door because the sanitizing cycle increases the heat inside the dishwasher. So, when you open it, there will be a lot of steam from the appliance, which can cause injuries.
Let the door open for about ten minutes so the dishwasher can cool down; it will automatically shut down when the appliance is cool. If you are uncomfortable opening the door during the Sanitize cycle, you can use the power button to end the cycle without opening the door.
3. Defective Control Board Fix
First, you will need to reset the dishwasher to clear any errors or glitches in the control board; you can do so by powering the appliance off and unplugging it from the electrical socket for 10 to 15 minutes.
Then, plug the dishwasher again and power it on to see if the problem has been solved; if the issue persists, check the control board for damage. The user manual can help you locate the control board, but it’s usually found on the front panel; however, it can also be on the rear or the side panel.
Next, inspect the control board electrical connection; if you notice any loose or damaged connection, you will have to fix it to solve the issue. Meanwhile, if you notice any burnt connections or burn marks on the board, unfortunately, you must get the board repaired or replaced.
4. Malfunctioning Timer Motor Fix
First, locate and check the timer motor using a digital multimeter; refer to your user manual for its location on your model. Then, take out the mounting screws of the outer control panel to remove it; open the dishwasher door to access the board; then unscrew it to remove it.
Disconnect the two wires connected to the timer motor; you can take a picture before removing the wires to use as a reference when connecting the timer motor back.
Set the multimeter to X1000, then touch the timer motor using one of the device probes. The reading of a functioning timer motor must be between 2,000 to 3,000 ohms of resistance; if the reading on the multimeter is out of this range, then replace the timer motor.
5. Faulty Heating Part Fix
First, determine the faulty element; start by checking the heating rod for any signs of damage like burnouts, breaks, or blistering. If the heating rod is intact, then you should check the element for continuity using a multimeter.
Before you can check the heating element, using either a digital or analog multimeter, you will first need to take it out. The heating element is underneath the lower rack at the bottom of the dishwasher tub; remove the rack to get access to the heating element.
Set the multimeter to ohms lowest setting and then touch the two probes together to adjust the needle to zero and calibrate the multimeter. Using the probes, touch the heating element terminals; the proper range should read between 0 to 50 ohms.
If the heating element is out of range, you will probably have to replace it because it’s damaged. However, if the heating element is in range, move on to the thermistor. Turn off the dishwasher and unplug from the power source, then unthread the mounting screws of the lower access panel.
Next, turn off the water supply and disconnect the water line from the inlet valve. Disconnect the wires after removing the junction box cover, and then remove the strain relief nut by unstraining it.
You will need to take out the dishwasher from its cabinet. Therefore, disconnect the drain hose and take it out through the cabinet hole, unthreading the mounting screws of the right access panel as you go.
Unscrew the screws of the thermistor and disconnect the wires connected to it so you can take it out. Install the new thermistor, connect it to the wires, and secure it in place using the screws.
6. Defective Turbidity Sensor Fix
Start by locating the turbidity sensor in your dishwasher; use the manual to determine the location; however, the sensor is usually found underneath the washer in the pump housing.
Power off the washer and unplug it from the power source, disconnect the hose, and turn off the water supply valve; then, remove the dishwasher from the cabinet. Lay the appliance on its rear panel, and unthread the mounting screws of the bottom panel to access the sensor.
Disconnect the leak sensor from the wires harness, then disconnect the wires connected to the turbidity sensor. Remove the sensor by pressing the lock tab on both of its sides.
Install the new turbidity sensor and connect it to the wires after securing it using the lock. Reinstall the bottom access panel and place the washer back into the cabinet.
Adrian is an ISCET licensed professional that has completed the National Appliance Service Technician Certification Exam and has the expertise to diagnose and repair any appliance. He is well-versed in the latest technologies and techniques and is always up-to-date on the latest industry standards.
